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Here’s the Sagada Super Post. Almost everything you know for planning your very own cost-efficient, organized and fun Do-It-Yourself Sagada getaway  is here. If you don’t find it here, email us at team@visitsagada *dot* com

Think of this post as a table of contents that would tie together almost all the entries that we have here.

How do I get to Sagada?

Comparing the routes - what's the best one? 

• Via the Manila – Baguio City – Sagada route
• Via the Manila – Banaue – Sagada route
• Via the Manila – Bontoc – Sagada route

What are the places to see and the things to do?

• List of Attractions
• Bomod-ok Falls (Big Falls)
• Sumaguing Cave
• Sumaguing-Lumiang Cave Connection
• Mt. Ampacao
• Echo Valley
• Lake Danum
• Bokong Falls (Small Falls)

How do I see the sights and places of interest?

• How to plan your itinerary
• How to organize tours and look for tour guides

Where can we stay in Sagada?

• Residential Lodge – Visit Sagada highly recommends this.
• George Guesthouse

Budget for Sagada? How many days?

• Holy Week/ Holidays In Sagada: What To Expect

• The Sagada Budget Matrix

• Question: Should you bring a kid to Sagada?

• How Many Days Should You Spend In Sagada?

• ATM in Sagada

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Last weekend, my friends and I took on the daunting challenge of going to Sagada. An extended weekend trip to Sagada is already a packed schedule but this trip (my 19th) was even going to be shorter. This was my shortest trip to Sagada – a trip that would require traveling time of 23 hours and a total staying time of just over 25 hours in town.

Despite the short time we spend in Sagada, it was still very enjoyable since the drive itself was quite an experience. The road to Sagada takes drivers and passengers alike through different topologies and landscapes that Luzon has to offer. Starting from the urban jungle of Manila, to the well paved North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), the vast plains of Bulacan and Nueva Ecija, the winding roads of Dalton Pass and the mountainous terrain of the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR), the 440-km drive sure takes one through a mini tour of the country’s largest island.

Since I mainly traveled via public transportation to Sagada and most of the traveling happens at night, I’m not really that familiar with the route. Luckily, my friend purchased the Papago Philippines app on the iPhone. With little research on possible routes, we trusted the app to show us the way and amazingly, through all the weird side roads and haystack-blocked paths, we were able to reach Sagada. The app was so impressive that all the major gas stations and banks were even plotted accurately on the app. It was so detailed that hotels in Sagada even showed up in the display. This app deserves a review and we will be coming up with one in the near future.
We took the Eastern route – the side that goes through Banaue and Bontoc. The Western Route is the one that passes the major hub of Baguio.
Here was our route to Sagada. Let me emumerate the towns that we passed:

1. Enter the NLEX
2. Take the Santa Rita, Bulacan.
3. Plaridel, Bulacan
4. Pulilan, Bulacan
5. Baliuag, Bulacan
6. San Rafael, Bulacan
7. San Miguel, Bulacan
8.  San Isidro, Bulacan
9. Gapan City, Nueva Ecija
10. San Leonardo, Nueva Ecija
11. Santa Rosa, Nueva Ecija
12. Cabanatuan, Nueva Ecija
13. Talavera, Nueva Ecija
14. The Science City of Munoz, Nueva Ecija
15. San Jose City, Nueva Ecija
16. Santa Fe, Nueva Vizcaya
17. Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya
18. Bambang, Nueva Vizcaya
19. Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya
20. Solano, Nueva Vizcaya
21. Bagabag, Nueva Vizcaya
22. Lamut, Ifugao
23. Kiangan, Ifugao
24. Lagawe, Ifugao
25. Banaue, Ifugao
26. Bontoc, Mt. Province
27. Sagada, Mt. Province

Whew, that’s a long way.

Here are some general tips:
1. Make sure your car can take the punishment of an almost 900km drive. We took a Honda Accord – a reasonably powerful car with a 2.4L engine that could make easy work of mountain driving. It did struggle in Staunton Road (the  last bit of road that leads into Sagada) due to the roughness of the terrain but it succeeded with flying colors everywhere else.
2. Try to leave at around 9 or 10PM the night before you wish to arrive in Sagada. This will allow you to do most of the flat driving during the night and around sunrise, you would be snaking your way up Ifugao.

3. Plan your toilet and meal breaks. Gas stations are quite ubiquitous up to Nueva Ecija but past Dalton Pass, you would notice that the distances between stations are far greater. When in Nueva Vizcaya, try to check out the rest rooms of the Total gas stations – they’re the quirkiest I’ve seen in the country. For had a midnight snack in the big Shell station along NLEX . We had breakfast at a very non-descript eatery at Lagawe, Ifugao.

4. Bring snacks and drinks to save on money. Drinks and snacks sold on gas stations tend to be more expensive than grocery bought goods so it would be better for you to have your own chips and sandwiches. Make sure that you have candies, caffeinated drinks and energy boosting beverages to keep your drivers awake.

5. Be very patient. This route is very popular for trucks that ply the route from Cagayan Valley to Manila. Some of them can be quite slow. There are also parts of the road in Mountain Province and Ifugao that could only fit one car at a time. Be prepared to give way.

6. Withdraw money in Manila. Don’t bet on withdrawing money from the sole ATM in Sagada.

7. If you want to check out Banaue, you may stop at any of the view decks at the outskirts of the town and admire the terraces from there.  You can pull out a 1000 peso bill to observe how the contour on the bill mirrors the actual shape of the real-life terraces.

8. If you want to do a day trip to Hapao, Bangaan or Batad, you would have to take a jeep to the more remote parts of Banaue. It can’t be a day trip anymore. We wouldn’t advise you to bring your car – the roads are just way too rough.

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So yes, it’s possible to drive your own car (a sedan!) to Sagada. This is my 19th trip to Sagada, but this is the first time in 12 years that I took private transportation. The first one was my first trip up – with my parents back in 1999.

Got questions, ask ‘em on our Facebook page!

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There seems to be major road repairs ongoing at Dalton Pass. I suggest that you take the other route (the one that goes through Baguio) to avoid inconvenience.

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1. Which one is the best option?

If you’re coming from Manila there are four factors that you have to consider

• Do you want to arrive early in Sagada? If you’re going via Baguio, the earliest you’ll arrive in Sagada is around 1130 AM.  This is because the first Lizardo Bus leaves Baguio at around 6AM. Going through Bontoc will allow you to get to Sagada relatively earlier – even before 9AM.
• Do you want to see Banaue? Banaue is on the opposite side of mountain range relative to Baguio. Banaue is on the eastern side of Luzon while Baguio is closer to the west coast.  Baguio and Banaue are actually 8-9 hours apart so this is a major consideration if you’re thinking of a non-circuitous route.
• Do you want more flexibility with your bus schedules? Simply put, there are more buses from Manila leaving for Baguio. There are also seven buses leaving for Sagada from Baguio. Contrast this to just ONE bus nightly from Manila to Bontoc and Banaue.
• Are you going to be comfortable staying in the same bus for 12 hours? The Bontoc bus takes 12 hours so you’re in for a long trip. If you’re comfortable sleeping in buses, this should be a good option since this is an all nighter. You will need to take a jeep from Bontoc to compete the trip (30-40 minutes). The Baguio-Sagada route cuts the trip into 6-hour halves – six hours each on two buses.

The cost for all routes are more or less the same so the price should not be the main consideration. All trips take almost the same time on the road but the

To summarize:

To get to Sagada earlier/ see Banaue: Take the Bontoc route. Call Cable Tours at 09185216790 to reserve tickets. The terminal is located near Trinity College in E. Rodriguez Avenue (Quezon City).

To have more schedule flexibility: Take the Baguio route. Go to any Victory Liner terminal (the major ones are in Pasay and Cubao) and catch one of the buses that leave for Baguio almost every hour.

2. What offers the better views?

Straight up, I’m going to tell you that the views are a lot better if you’re coming from the eastern side. The mossy forest in between Bontoc and Banaue is probably one of the most gorgeous things I’ve seen by the roadside of any road in the Philippines.

However, if you prefer to travel from Baguio, make sure that you’re on the opposite side of the driver when going to Sagada. Most of the good views (the sea of clouds and similar phenomena) will be on your side.

Safe travels, everyone!

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I’ve been to Sagada almost all months of the year and this is how I felt about it:

January

The first month of the year is probably one of the best times to go. January usually isn’t peak season for tourism so you’ll the town to yourself. The weather is still cold so the early evenings and nights can be quite an experience. From what I remember, it rarely rains during this month; if ever, it would only be in the afternoon.

February

This month is a lot like January but the big clincher here is the town fiesta during the first week. It’s a big local celebration so it would be a good idea to check it out to see another side of the town’s personality.

March and April

It gets hot real fast. I personally don’t like the summer months for two reasons – the amount of people in town usually doubles or triples instantly and the weather just becomes too similar to the warmer parts of the country. The road to Sagada gets a bit too dusty and it will be a challenge to people with asthma.

May

I’ve been to Sagada three times during May and it’s a mixed bag. The other two trips were unremarkable and very enjoyable weather-wise, but the latest one (2008) was absolutely rained out. It could be a bit risky.

June and July

The Aguid village near the Bomod-ok Falls (Big Falls) usually close the trail to the waterfall around this time. The exact date of closure is NEVER known in advance so you could be missing out on your chance to check out the waterfalls. The rains start to get more regular around this time and in this region, rain equals landslides. These roadslips can certainly slow down your transit time – especially from the Baguio side.

August, September and October

This is typhoon season. Fortunately, Sagada has not been heavily damaged by the last two super typhoons that has hit the area (Megi 2010 and Parma 2009). The towns around Sagada were devastated though and it made traveling to the area next to impossible. Power could also be unavailable in town during times of severe rains and typhoons. I went to Sagada August last year and the Baguio-Sagada trip that was usually 5.5 hours ended up being longer than 7 hours due to road repairs. It’s frustrating because the section that usually gets bad rock slides is in the barangay of Gonogon – just 40 minutes away from Sagada.

November

It starts getting cold around this time. Late November is a really good stretch to consider going – there aren’t a lot of people in town yet and the weather is probably as perfect as its going to get.

December

Early to mid December is a lot like November but a little bit colder. Late December is awesome if you like being in large groups. The annual bonfire activity is held every December 28 and its easily one of the biggest parties that the town hosts every year. If it’s okay for you to share a packed town that’s filled to the brim, December is the perfect time to go. I’ve gone the past three years and it’s been nothing short of a great experience.

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Power has also been restored.

Show your support to Sagada, Mountain Province by visiting soon! Cheers

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Kalinga has always been a province that has evoked a strong sense of curiosity from me. The name of the province itself is a virtual oxymoron from the place’s actual reputation and geography. While the term “kalinga” in Filipino means literally to take care, the province has a geographical terrain that is hardly hospitable due to its ruggedness. The pervasive and enduring stories about the province’s head hunters among its tribal communities also do not help much in promoting a welcoming environment for curious travelers who may want to seek paths through the Cordilleras away from the relatively more touristy areas of Banaue and Sagada.

I recently traveled with Ed of Eazy Traveler to explore Kalinga. Ed has been to a lot of places in the Philippines and he wanted to take advantage of the recent September 2010 long weekend to go to a province that he hasn’t been to. I was supposed to be a solo trip but after seeing his post of Facebook, I just couldn’t resist the opportunity – and the challenge – of foraying to Kalinga.This is a trip that I wouldn’t have done alone.It’s embarrasing, but yes, I’ve fallen victim to the rhetoric against Kalinga and I’ve fallen for the black propaganda hook, line and sinker. You can ask Ed to verify this information for you. I was very nervous before we left for the trip.

After 12 hours, we finally reached Bontoc. Ed told me that there were only two buses/jeeps that go to Tinglayan. We needed to catch the first trip that leaves at around 9 AM because the next one wouldn’t be leaving until 1 PM. Since Tinglayan is a good three hours away from Bontoc, it was really ideal that we get on the first bus. We only planned to be in town for the duration of the long weekend and we had to be back by Monday morning.

It took a while before we located the bus to Tinglayan but it should be easy to find in the future. For future reference, the “station” is located next to the Mountain Province State Polytechnic College just down the street from the Cable Tours office and the police station.

The mini-bus was already full when we got there so we had to go up to the roof and just hope that it doesn’t rain. I’m sure any Pinoy traveler worth his or her salt would have tried toploading a bus or jeep at some point but when you’re doing it for three hours with a dozen other people and a few LPG tanks, it can be quite uncomfortable. Being on the roof also meant you had to dodge electrical wires, tree branches,  rock formations and water pipes!

The fare was 100 pesos.

The roads were really rough and recent landslides made the already poorly-maintained road even harder to navigate. The bus would literally tilt back and forth and side to side. Ed and I were seriously considering jumping off to safety should we feel that the bus was about to fall into the ravine.

After three hours of great views, dusty roads and close calls, we finally reached the town of Tinglayan. We had a quick lunch at the Sleeping Beauty Guest House which was pretty much the only hostel in town. We could have stayed the night there but Ed decided that we should go straight to the villages.

Our first stop was the village of Tulgao – around an hour by jeep from Tinglayan town proper. As luck would have it, the jeep would again be full and we would have to ride on top of the jeep again after doing it for three hours earlier in the day. The ride was worth it though. The mountains, hills, meadows and falls that were in full view on the way to Tulgao made the trip visually exhilarating. I doubt if the same could have been appreciated inside the confines of the jeepney. There were times when the jeep cut through the mountain’s spine making the risk of falling to the ravine twice as likely. During those times, I contemplated stepping off and just walking until the jeep has passed the spine.

Upon arriving in Tulgao village, we were welcomed by the Guyang family. They openly let us into their home and even gave us our own room. I was so tired from the 16 hours of traveling that we had to do to get to Tulgao so I decided to take the afternoon off. I was already running a fever then and I didn’t want to worsen whatever lowlander condition I had.

Ed was able to produce really amazing images of the last few remaining people of Tulgao who had the traditional tattoos. Apparently, most of the elders who have tattoos are very happy to have their photos taken – they’ll be even happier if copies of their photos are sent to them by mail! Ed is planning to do just that. The patterns designed on the arms and legs are reminiscent of the python’s skin and the signature curves of a centipede. Women have been traditionally tattooed for aesthetic and social purposes while men who are heavily inked are the ones who have shown their bravery and leadership during times of war with other tribes and in some instances – against foreign invaders such as the Japanese forces during World War II.

We had dinner at the Guyang household and called it a night. It was very cold. T_T

Day 3

This is what greets you every morning at the living room of the Guyang residence. The mountain is literally in your face unlike in other places in the Cordilleras were they can still be quite a distance away. Incidentally, this is the only photo that I took in the entire photo set seen in this entry. All the other photos are by Ed using his Canon Powershot G11.

After a quick breakfast, we headed out to the nearby waterfall and hot spring. Boy, it took one hour one-way and it wasn’t a particularly easy hike!  I’m not the most sure-footed of trekkers so I definitely took my time going down the steep and muddy paths. Our guide was one of the boys from the Guyang house hold. He told us the hike would only take 40 minutes but I guess we were really slow (?). The fact that we don’t really see a lot of wristwatches in town could also be a contributing factor.

Ed wanted to swing by Butbut to take more tattoo photos and Buskalan to meet the last tattoo artist in the entire town of Tinglayan but transportation arrangements and the weather didn’t meld perfectly. We waited for one hour at the junction waiting for a motorbike that would allow us to hitch a ride. You can’t really force anything in the Cordilleras. Much like in other mountain towns, time can be quite flexible and an “hour” is not “60 minutes”. The first shot in this entry was taken while we were waiting for the bike.

The ride to Butbut was very scary and bumpy. The roads in between Butbut and Tulgao has very steep ascents and treacherous-looking dips and curves. One wrong move and you can certainly veer off track to the waiting ravine or the monolithic mountain face. The slope on some areas certainly looked like it was over 50 degrees. Ed and I are both over 5 foot 7 inches so it was very uncomfortable to be cramped in a motorcycle with the driver in tow. It took 30 minutes to get to Butbut and the fare was 100 pesos each. The hike would have taken around 2-3 hours.

We quickly located the Baccoy family’s residence and we were also graciously welcomed. The Baccoy’s are so popular that they even made it to the pages of Lonely Planet Philippines! To top it all off, they would let you sleep in their ancestral home just a few steps from their current house.

Awesome, right?

Ed would again go around town to take photos of the elders while I retired and snoozed away in the Baccoy’s house. Ed would have an alarming discovery that none of the men with tattoos are around. Three of them died just last year (2009). The trip to Buskalan and the quest to meet the only remaining tattoo artist – who happens to be a ninety year old woman – would have to wait for another day. It’s a race against time!

Day 3

After a quick breakfast with the Baccoy’s we were on our way. Here’s a photo of me having a cup of coffee that was made from beans that were roasted from the night before. Forgive the hair – I only took one shower during the entire trip.

These are the Baccoy’s. They’re really nice and accommodating. Just like the Guyang’s, they made me feel real stupid and embarrassed to have even thought that the Kalinga locals are hostile towards tourists. Host families in Kalinga don’t give set rates. They only encourage you to give them what you feel like giving. This is a testament to how undeveloped tourism is in this area. It would be interesting to see how this develops in the coming years. As for now, Kalinga continues to be a little-known paradise for adventure seekers and those who would like to immerse themselves in a cultural practice that is inevitably going to be gone within the next two decades.

The Return

After another motorbike ride that I’d rather forget, we got back to Tinglayan were we got on a jeep to the provincial capital Tabuk. The people inside the jeepney were also very friendly and were very enthusiastic to share the traditions of their province. It took three hours to get to Tabuk and we were able to book tickets for the lone 430 PM bus to Manila.

I got home at around 6AM the following day. Over a span of eighty hours, we were on the road for over 33. It was very tiring but the trip to Kalinga is one of the most inspiring and exciting trips I’ve ever taken. I’m very happy that I took the chance – and that Ed let me tag along – for this amazing experience. I will definitely be back!

Note: All photos in this entry are all by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap @ Eazytraveler unless otherwise specified.

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Happy (and safe) travels, everyone!

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Halsema is now closed but payloaders are already on the site to fix the problem. Baguio is also isolated due to landslides along Kennon Road, Marcos Highway and Naguillian Road.

Expect these obstacles to clear in the coming days.

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